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November is “Adopt-a-Senior Pet” Month
Psst! Spread the word. Now is the time. Time to brighten the darkening days of November. Time to warm the cooling nights of November. Time to think snuggles and slippers and cookies and cuddles.
Want a hint?
There’s nothing more satisfying, more contenting or more comforting than curling up with a good …. no, not a book.
A good old boy or a good old girl.
Why, then, adopt a senior dog? For more reasons than you can shake a stick at. Throw a ball for. Or toss a bone to.
Older dogs may know all the old tricks, but they’re still open to learning new ones.
Older dogs are fully-grown, and so are their personalities: what you see is precisely who they are.
Older dogs are like mind readers because they’ve long practiced what their earlier owners preached.
Older dogs slip as easily into a comfortable home and a comforting routine as easily as slipping into an old shoe — preferably one of yours.
Older dogs understand the true meaning of the word “mutual” as in mutual admiration (including love, loyalty and devotion) society.
Older dogs no longer leap tall fences in a single bound, but they still need and enjoy the proverbial walk around the block every day.
And, finally, on a more serious note, older dogs are usually the last dogs to be adopted from shelters, and the first dogs to be euthanized.
With their golden years still stretching out ahead of them, to lose those years is to be cheated out of something most precious: time.
Why, then, adopt a senior dog? If for no other reason than that: time. Time to love them as fully and deeply as they, most assuredly and unconditionally, will love you.
And these golden boys and girls — all available for adoption — come packaged and gift wrapped in every imaginable breed, shape and size. Their tags may describe them as “senior” dogs, but they’re breathing, barking proof that you are only as old as you feel.
Most of these golden oldies are hale and hearty, healthy and happy. And don’t pass the iron pills to any of these spry and sprightly members of the not-so-geriatric set. Many of them could outrun you in a four-legged race with one leg tied behind their backs. In an age of ageism, age is just a number, and what’s considered a senior dog in one breed is still a teenager in another.
MAKE MOVING EASIER FOR YOU AND YOUR DOG
Dogs, like humans, are creatures of habit. Once comfortable in their surroundings, they are unnerved by change. And trading a familiar home for an unfamiliar one can cause fearfulness and stress. Unless you, the conscientious dog guardian, plan ahead with all the precision of a successful military campaign. Logically, then, moving from one place to another should consist of three stages: preparing for the move; moving day itself; and settling into your new home.
PREPARING FOR THE MOVE
Purchase a large, comfortable carrier and give your dog sufficient time to adjust to being in it. Leave it on the floor with the door open and some treats inside. Keep replacing the treats after your dog has retrieved them.
Set out your cardboard, moving boxes a few days before you actually begin to pack so that your dog can get used to the sight and scent of them.
Maintain your dog’s regular routine for feeding, walking and playing, and quality together time.
If your dog becomes anxious as you start packing, place him/her in a quiet room with some toys and treats and keep the door closed. On the other hand, if yours is an especially nervous dog, boarding him/her in a professional kennel the day before and after the move may be the best solution -- for all of you.
Make certain that your dog’s identification tags carry your new address and telephone number. But the best precaution -- and the wisest investment you can make -- is an updated microchip implant.
MOVING DAY ITSELF
Even before the movers take over the premises, tuck your dog safely away from the centre of the storm by closing him/her in a bathroom, together with food, water, some toys and his/her bed.
To ensure that your dog doesn’t panic and try to escape if the door is opened, put a sign on the door stating that it must remain shut.
Your dog should always travel with you, secure in the carrier, and not in the moving van.
SETTLING INTO YOUR NEW HOME
Put your dog in a room that will remain relatively quiet for awhile. Before opening the carrier, lay out your dog’s food, water bowl, toys and bed, and place some treats around the room.
Keep your dog in this one “safe” room for a few days, spending time together, soothing and cuddling, and sharing some low-key activities like reading, listening to music or watching TV.
Dog-proof your new home as soon as possible. Included in your “must do” list:
tuck drapery, blinds and electrical cords out of reach; ensure all windows and screens are secure; install child-proof latches on your cabinets – particularly those containing cleaning supplies; cover unused electrical outlets with special plastic caps, and keep all toilet seats down.
Begin gradually walking your dog through the rest of the place, one room at a time, constantly praising and reassuring him/her as you make the rounds. Over and over again.
Restore your dog’s former feeding, walking and playing routine so that, hopefully, it will seem that nothing has changed much at all.
Dogs may be creatures of habit, but they are highly adaptable as well. And so, whether familiar or unfamiliar, old or new, for them, there is still no place like home.
For decades now, designated months have been devoted to an increasing number of awareness-raising issues. And for more than a decade, raising awareness about the crucial issue of animal adoption has been no different. Their designated month is October. With that in mind, we wanted to remind our supporters of the life-affirming roles dogs play in our lives, and of our responsibility to pay it forward by saving the lives of those less fortunate. Millions of healthy, adoptable dogs across North America are being euthanized annually because there aren’t enough homes for them. It’s vital to remember that every animal adopted opens a space for another animal in need. By choosing adoption, you’re helping decrease the number of dogs left homeless each year. The simple three-word message “DON’T SHOP, ADOPT!” has captured the hearts of potential dog adopters and fired the imaginations of caring and conscientious communities everywhere. It has also attracted a growing number of civic-minded and social conscious individuals, organizations and corporations to the cause. Are you thinking of adding a dog to your household? If so, we urge you to click the “ADOPT” button on our home page and view all of our available and appealing doggies. Not looking for one right now, but know someone who is? Encourage them to do the same. And for those unable to adopt, but want to get involved and make a difference, consider the following: * Click the “DONATE” button on our home page and make a donation to us in honor of “Adopt-A-Dog” Month. * Click the “VOLUNTEER” button on our home page and apply to volunteer and/or foster for us. Volunteers and fosters are the backbone of every rescue group, and we couldn’t function without them. * Spread the “adoption” message to your followers on your personal Face Book page. * Add a Petfinder widget or banner to your own web site or blog. * Sign online petitions to shut down puppy mills across the country. But remember, although “Adopt-A-Dog” Month may end with October, the need to adopt a dog will continue -- month after month after month.
WHEN CHOOSING A DOG, CHOOSE WISELY! Truer words were never spoken, because being an informed owner truly means being that dog’s true, best friend. An alarming number of dogs are abandoned, surrendered, and euthanized each year in this country. The reasons are many, but one of the greatest contributing factors is the failure of too many potential owners to educate themselves fully BEFORE acquiring a dog. The educated ones would know to thoroughly familiarize themselves with the breed they’re considering, including the breed’s physical description and personality, trainability and exercise requirements, health issues, and general care and grooming. They would know there’s no such thing as TOO much information. The more informed they are, the more informed their decision. They would know to choose a breed that fits in with their particular lifestyle, needs and expectations. Examples. No high shedding dogs in a home of allergy sufferers. No hyperactive or high energy dogs in a small apartment. No dogs who can’t get along with cats or any other family pets. No dogs in need of constant companionship if there is no one at home during the day. They would know that, whatever the breed, raising a dog from puppy hood is, like raising a child, not a hobby or a sometime thing but a full time, fully committed responsibility. They would know that puppies must be housetrained promptly and socialized early in order for them to develop into well-behaved and friendly dogs with good bite inhibition. They would know to always be consistent, that discipline does NOT mean punishment, and that love, in and of itself, does NOT conquer all. They would also know that certified trainers and supervised puppy classes can be of crucial help to them in raising calm and balanced dogs if they’re unable to manage on their own. On the flip side are the uninformed and uneducated owners. The ones who, ruled by their hearts and not their heads, choose poorly from the start. The ones who, sadly and all too frequently, raise untrained, ill-mannered and often dangerous dogs. These are the dogs who, over time, will prove too much for their ill-equipped and increasingly frustrated owners. These are the dogs who will eventually be abandoned in empty lots or left by the side of the road. These are the dogs who will be deposited outside a local pound or shelter or, if they’re lucky, surrendered to a rescue organization. These are the dogs who will be adopted – and probably returned – by unsuspecting people intent on doing the right thing by not buying from a pet store or an unscrupulous breeder. These are the dogs who, more than likely, will be euthanized due to overcrowded facilities or because of their own people-biting or dog-aggressive behaviors. These are the unfortunate innocents who will pay with their lives for their owners’ unfortunate ignorance. Thereby perpetuating an all-too-familiar and vicious cycle. And the only way to break this cycle is to turn every potential dog owner into an informed and educated dog owner. Remember that the dog YOU ultimately choose is counting on you. DOG BITING: FOREWARNED IS FOREARMED Dogs may nip or bite for a variety of reasons. The following are the most common: DOMINANCE AGGRESSION FEAR AGGRESSION This response is usually directed toward strangers. Much like people, dogs are, by nature, fearful of unfamiliar and potentially threatening situations. In old cartoons and movies, it was always the postman who was at the receiving end of a bite. But, in reality, it can be anyone. Anyone the dog doesn’t know, anyone innocently “invading” a dog’s space, or anyone who seems particularly menacing. If a series of cautionary barks doesn’t fend off this perceived danger, a lunge and a bite may result. REDIRECTED AGGRESSION PAIN-INDUCED AGGRESSION Even the sweetest and gentlest dog can -- if the pain is severe enough -- bite the hand that’s trying to help. Whether a novice owner, an experienced trainer, or a seasoned vet. Every dog has his own particular threshold and tolerance for pain. Cross it with a normally soothing touch or a tender pat of reassurance, and that nursing hand will need a doctor. PERSISTENT HARASSMENT This category is reserved for people who either don’t respect a dog’s boundaries or don’t understand that every dog has his limits. Thoughtless behaviors, inconsiderate overtures, constant pestering, poking or prodding – and the perpetrator will be punished with a bite. PROTECTION OF “PROPERTY” Dogs chosen by families either for personal protection or for the protection of their property may find themSELVES the unwitting target of their dogs’ over-zealous guarding. Trained to defend everything of value – from the family house and car to the family itself – from outside threats, some dogs will even “protect” one family member from another by biting the one they considers a threat. Children between the ages of 5 and 9 are at greatest risk for dog bites. To minimize these risks, they should be taught to: Report a strange dog wandering through their yard or neighborhood to an adult. Never approach a strange dog. Never approach an eating or sleeping dog, or a mother caring for her pups. Never look directly into a dog's eyes. Stand as still as a statue if approached by a strange dog. Never scream at or run from a strange dog. Roll into a ball and not move if knocked down by a strange dog. Never play with a dog unless in the company of an adult. To help reduce the incidences of dog biting: All responsible dog owners must learn about and understand fully the complexities of canine behavior. All responsible dog owners must obedience train and socialize their dogs – the sooner, the younger, the better. All responsible dog owners must teach their children to respect ALL dogs, starting with the ones in their own homes. It’s said that a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. In the case of dog biting, however, a little knowledge is less dangerous than no knowledge at all. DO YOU KNOW YOUR SHIH TZU? The Shih Tzu may have several names, including Chinese Lion Dog, Lion Dog and Chrysanthemum Dog, but they all add up to the same thing. One very adorable, personable, often stubborn but always loyal and loving companion. With his sweet-natured temperament, the Shih Tzu is less demanding and less yappy than most toy breeds. Alhough solidly built and lively, his exercise needs are few – some short walks each day or some brief romps in the yard. Primarily a lover of comfort and attention, what this breed enjoys most is cuddling on laps and snuggling into soft pillows. Friendly and feisty, these small, flat-faced, silky coated sweethearts are usually trustworthy around older children, but their small size puts them at risk for unintentional injury around toddlers and very young children. Shih Tzu are generally healthy dogs, living to 15 years or more, but like every dog breed, they have their own distinct temperament and are prone to certain conditions and diseases. Because a Shih Tzu is difficult to housebreak, consistency is key, and crate training an essential aid. Never let a puppy roam your place unsupervised until completely housetrained. A Shih Tzu seems particularly prone to eating his or other dogs’ feces. Monitoring your dog’s behavior and cleaning up his poop promptly will prevent this from becoming a habit. The dense, double coat of a Shih Tzu should be combed or brushed daily to keep shedding and matting to a minimum. The Shih Tzu tends to snore, wheeze and reverse sneeze, and the flatness of his face makes him susceptible to heat stroke (the air entering his lungs isn't cooled as efficiently as in longer-nosed breeds). It’s wise to keep your Shih Tzu indoors in air-conditioned rooms during hot weather. And walk him in a Y-shaped harness that wraps around his chest, not his throat. A collar puts pressure on his windpipe and makes it harder for him to breathe. Reverse sneezing can occur when a Shih Tzu suffers from allergies, becomes overly excited, or gulps food too quickly. Nasal secretions drop onto the soft palate, causing it to close over the windpipe, creating that wheezing sound. Some experts suggest the fastest way to stop this is to pinch your dog’s nostrils closed, thereby forcing him to breathe through his mouth. Because of their undershot jaws, Shih Tzu are prone to dental and gum problems, such as retained baby teeth, missing and misaligned teeth, and must have their teeth brushed and vet checked regularly. The drop ears of the Shih Tzu create a dark and warm ear canal, leaving them prone to infection. To help prevent this, check and clean your dog’s ears weekly and keep him on a grain-free diet. Eye problems are not uncommon among Shih Tzu because of their large, bulging eyes. These disorders include keratoconjunctivitis sicca, or dry eye (a dryness of the cornea and the conjunctiva), distichiasis (abnormal growth of eyelashes on the margin of the eye, resulting in the eyelashes rubbing against it), proptosis (the eyeball is dislodged from the eye socket and the eyelids clamp shut behind the eyeball), keratitis (inflammation of the cornea that can lead to a corneal ulcer and blindness), and progressive retinal atrophy (degenerative disease of the retinal visual cells leading to blindness). Also common are bladder stones and bladder infections, hip dysplasia (abnormal formation of the hip socket possibly causing pain and lameness) and patellar luxation, (dislocation of the kneecap), in which the knee joint slides in and out of place, causing pain and again, possible lameness. Health concerns aside, the Shih Tzu simply doesn't care where he lives, as long as he's with you. A highly adaptable dog, he can be equally comfortable in a small city apartment, a large suburban home or a cozy country cottage. If you want a dog who lives to love and be loved, whose primary characteristic is affection, and whose favorite destination is your lap, look no further than the Shih Tzu cuddled next to you.
Cherry Eye in Dogs The condition commonly called “cherry eye” occurs when a tear gland protrudes from your dog’s eye socket. Easily spotted, it appears as a pink or red mass bulging from the corner of the eye nearest your dog’s nose. It can affect either one or both eyes AND can be recurrent. Located underneath the nictitating membrane (known as the third eyelid) which protects a dog’s eye from wind, dust and debris, this tear gland provides the cornea with essential lubrication. Once this gland has slipped or prolapsed, your dog’s eye loses most or all of its vital moisture, often resulting in keratocon junctivitis sicca or dry eye, which, if left untreated, can ultimately lead to blindness. Although “cherry eye” is commonly associated with a congenital weakness of the gland’s attachment in the dog's eye, it isn’t known if the condition is inherited and it can affect any and all breeds. As a conscientious dog owner, then, pay attention to: any watery or thick discharge from your dog’s eye; a red or pink blob in the corner of his eye; redness in the lining of one of his eyelids, or persistent pawing at his eye. If you witness any of the above, allow your vet to examine your dog's third eyelid to determine precisely what the problem is. The diagnosis can even include scrolled or everted cartilage in the third eyelid, abnormal cells in the third eye, and a prolapse of fat in his eye. With no preventative measures for “cherry eye” at this time, treatment is the only option. In milder cases, topical anti-inflammatory drugs will usually be prescribed, which are highly effective in reducing the swelling. Keeping your dog’s eyes well lubricated by using the highest quality eye drops may also help prevent a recurrence of the condition. If corrective surgery is suggested, the tear gland can either be stitched back into place (this procedure is not 100% effective and a prolapse may reoccur) or the third eyelid removed completely, necessitating the use of eye drops every day from then on. With more research needed into the causes, prevention and treatment of “cherry eye,” all caring dog owners can do is keep a watchful “eye” on their cherished canine companions and keep them safe.
KEEPING YOUR DOG HEARTWORM SAFE A single bite from a single infected mosquito can cause an otherwise healthy dog to develop heartworm disease and potentially die. A heartworm is a parasitic worm (Dirofilaria immitis) that lives in the heart and pulmonary arteries of an affected dog. The worms travel through the bloodstream, damaging arteries and vital organs as they go, before arriving at the lungs and heart approximately six months after that initial mosquito bite. Several hundred worms can live in a single dog from between five and seven years, and if left untreated, can prove fatal. The best protection against this insidious disease? Prevention. Prevention is both safe and effective, whereas treating the disease itself is complicated, costly, and can, like the disease, have serious, even fatal, effects on the stricken dog. Preventives work by killing the heartworm larvae before they can grow and mature into adult heartworms. Although a variety of preventives are now available to conscientious pet owners everywhere, the first step in the prevention process is a visit to the vet. Most vets recommend yearly testing for heartworm in dogs older than 6 months, usually in late spring. If your dog is heartworm negative, inexpensive, chewable pills are available with your vet’s prescription. The pills, which are palatable to most dogs, must be given to your dog monthly, and are manufactured by several companies. These pills can also be given to dogs under 6 months of age without a blood test. Besides pills, there are specially designed, chemical preventive products that you apply directly onto your dog’s skin. Application of these topical preventives should begin June 1st and continue for six months. Some heartworm preventives contain additional ingredients that will control other parasites, such as roundworms or hookworms, while the topical preventives prescribed by your vet will protect your dog against fleas and ticks as well. If you choose the vet-prescribed pill, you can opt to give it to your dog only during mosquito season (from spring through the first frost), but the most recent recommendation from the American Heartworm Society is to keep giving them all year round. And remember, although your dog may not go outside, mosquitoes can still get INside. For those preferring to NOT use either the pill or the topical preventive, homeopathic veterinarians advise testing your dog for heartworm twice yearly. In short, consult with your vet. Protect the dog you love against these invasive, potentially fatal parasites, and this summer, all of you can rest, assured.
Helping your dog cope with thunder and fireworks
The arrival of hot weather and national holidays isn’t always a reason for celebration, especially for noise-phobic dogs. For them, hot weather means thunderstorms, and national holidays, like the Fourth of July, mean fireworks. And that can mean reactions from panting to panic attacks. It may also mean trembling, drooling or whining; pacing or barking; urinating or vomiting. If you own this type of dog, it means bearing helpless witness to your pet’s extreme fear. Fortunately, there are various ways to deal with your animal’s distress. The first is to defuse the situation before it begins. Play a recording of the sounds of thunder at a low volume for brief intervals, adjusting the volume according to your dog’s responses, repeating this procedure over and over again. But if a thunderstorm or fireworks display has already started, there are several coping strategies you can try: * Divert your dog’s attention. Turn on the radio or television, engage in some active games and be generous with the treats. * Provide your dog with a dark, comfortable place to hide – from a dog crate or the inside of a closet to a folded blanket under the bed. Being tucked away in a small, snug space allows your dog to feel more secure and muffles the noise outside. * Buy dog-appeasing pheromones (their scent is similar to those released by nursing mother dogs), available in sprays, diffusers and collars. * Bind a form fitting, fabric wrap or thick, woven shirt tightly around your dog. Both garments are meant to touch certain pressure points in your dog’s body, slowing down the heart, reducing knots of tension and helping to promote relaxation. * If, however, your pet’s anxieties escalate, there are two remaining alternatives. Working with a qualified dog therapist to learn behavior modification techniques, or talking to your vet to see if a prescription for anti-anxiety medication may help. But, whichever path you choose, follow it with kindness, patience and love. Think back to the sounds that frightened you as a child, and you’ll know just how your precious pet is feeling.
BEING CAUTIOUS IS COOL THIS SUMMER! Picture yourself on a sweltering summer day wearing a long winter coat. Are you hot yet? Are you itchy? Are you thirsty? Are you desperately searching for shade? Now picture your dogs on that same summer day. And you’ll have some idea of how THEY feel. Protecting them from the hot sun, hot air and hot ground is essential to keeping them safe outside. All it requires is common sense and some advance planning. Here are some suggestions: For dogs with particularly thick or heavy coats, have a groomer lightly trim them back. Guard against sunburn by applying either a child’s SPF 45 sun block or a specially formulated animal sunscreen to the tips of your dog’s ears, the nose and the belly. Whether on a porch, patio or lawn, create a shaded area using planters or shrubbery. Set up a makeshift canopy using a blanket draped across two chairs. Limit your dog’s outdoor exercise. Take your walks early in the morning or when the sun is setting. If the day’s particularly hot and humid, forego your walks altogether. Turn on a garden sprinkler and let your dog run through it or fill a specially constructed doggy pool with water for him to lie in or splash about in. Keep your dog’s water bowl filled, cool, and free of floating debris. Avoid hot asphalt, which can quickly burn the pads of your dog’s paws. Place the back of your hand on the sidewalk or road pavement. If you can’t keep your hand there for seven seconds, then it’s too hot for your dog. Wherever possible, walk your dog on the grass instead. Never leave your dog unattended in the car. Whether in the shade with the windows cracked or with the motor running and the air conditioning on, your car can become a deathtrap within minutes.Watch your dog for signs of heat exhaustion. Because dogs don’t sweat, their only way of cooling down is by panting or releasing heat through their paws. Warning signs of heat exhaustion include exaggerated panting, excessive salivation, a vacant expression, restlessness or listlessness, trembling, and skin that’s hot to the touch. If your dog’s condition worsens, seek immediate medical attention. To be a responsible pet owner is to be an informed pet owner. The list of safety rules may seem long, but the hot days of summer are even longer.
Tick Alert: Pet Owners Beware With the arrival of summer comes the arrival of an annoying and possibly fatal pest: the tick. What was once considered a nuisance found only in the wooded countryside has been persistently and increasingly invading cities both large and small. Now ticks can be as close as your neighbourhood park or your neighbour’s backyard. What, precisely, is a tick? A tick is a fairly common, external parasite that embeds itself in the skin of both animals and humans. Once it lands, it inserts its mouthparts into the skin and feeds on the blood. And that single tick has the potential to pass on multiple diseases. Deer ticks and Western Blacklegged ticks can carry Lyme disease and Rocky Mountain spotted fever, which animals (and humans) can contract. Prevention and early detection are the best ways of protecting your pets against Lyme disease. The intent is to stop it before any symptoms appear. Should the disease progress, symptoms can include stiff, painful and swollen joints, and a limp that comes and goes, often appearing to switch sides. Some dogs have an arched back and a stiff walk. More serious, however, are fever, difficulty breathing and kidney failure. Heart and neurological problems are rarer. To help protect your pet, there are several preventatives available – such as K9 Advantix – which stops ticks BEFORE they bite, killing, not only all of the major tick species, but acting as a flea treatment as well. A product meant only for dogs, K9 Advantix must NOT be applied to cats. Such preventatives are particularly important for high-risk animals such as hunting dogs, cottage dogs, and dogs hiking through fields. But it’s important to remember that dogs (and cats) can pick up ticks in the city as well. When bitten, the skin of some pets may become red and irritated around the site, while others may not even notice the parasite attached to them. It is imperative then, that you inspect your pet thoroughly when returning from areas known for ticks. Should you find a tick on your pet, it must be removed very carefully to ensure that the mouthparts are fully removed. If left behind, they can abscess and cause infection. Kill the tick by placing it in a zip-lock bag and pouring rubbing alcohol over it. For the uncertain owner, special tick removal devices are available, while the squeamish can have their vet remove the tick instead. Some experts now advise that when your pet is tested annually for heartworm, the same test include screening for Lyme disease, ehrlichiosis and anaplasmosis (both bacterial infections). A positive test result enables you to start treating your pet early -- before the onset of any symptoms. Never was the expression “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” more true.
ALLERGY ALERT! ITCH THAT TIME AGAIN.
If so, she may be suffering from seasonal allergies. These reactions to an obvious,but invisible, itch is her body’s way of responding to molecules called “allergens.” The major culprits: trees, grasses, pollens, molds and ragweed. The main cause: inhaling these irritants through the nose and mouth. Unlike humans, most dogs’ allergies manifest themselves as skin irritations or inflammations known as allergic dermatitis. Left untreated, your dog’s constant scratching can lead to open sores and scabs, hair loss and hot spots. Ear infections, running noses, watery eyes, coughing and sneezing may also occur. To determine the source of your dog’s allergy, ask your vet to conduct a series of tests: intradermal, blood or both. Once a specific allergen has been identified, you can try the following: Topical therapies: frequent baths with an oatmeal-free shampoo; foot soaks to reduce tracking allergens into the house; topical solutions containing hydrocortisone to ease the itching. Diet: one low in carbohydrates like grain, or low in fat; put omega-3 fatty acids and/or coconut oil in her food; add a combination of the naturopathic supplements quercetin, bromelain and papain to her meals. Drugs: antihistamines, cyclosporine or steroids. As always, consult your vet before starting any form of treatment. Monitor your dog’s behavior closely and report any improvement or worsening in her condition. It may take several attempts before the proper treatment is found. But when it is, your dog will be much more comfortable — and so will you. MAY IS NATIONAL MICROCHIP MONTH Millions of dogs go missing each year, and sadly, very few are ever reunited with their owners. But it doesn’t have to be this way. A growing number of conscientious dog owners now rely on microchips to protect their precious family pets. Microchipping is a simple and safe procedure. A veterinarian injects a microchip -- the size of a grain of rice -- beneath the surface of your dog’s skin between the shoulder blades. Similar to a routine shot, it takes only a few seconds and most dogs don’t even feel it. A microchip is permanent and will last the life of your dog. Following the procedure, your dog must registered with the microchip company (usually for a one-time fee), thus storing his unique, alpha-numeric code in the company’s database. Whenever a lost dog appears at a shelter, humane society or veterinary clinic, he will automatically be scanned for a microchip. If there is one, the screen of the handheld scanner will display that dog’s specific code. A simple call to the recovery database using a toll free 800 number enables the code to be traced back to the dog’s owner. But in order for the system to work efficiently, all owners are cautioned to keep their contact information up-to-date. Since no method of identification is perfect, the best way for owners to protect their dogs is to keep current ID tags on them, microchip them, and never allow them to roam. This month, make microchipping YOUR precious pet a MUST.
Are you hesitant about planning a vacation because of your dog? Are you stopped by images of your cherished family companion in a boarding kennel run by well-meaning strangers? Consider another possibility: your dog, safe and snug at home, cared for by someone who’s qualified and experienced. Consider a pet sitter. Pet sitters are paid professionals who come to your home and spend quality time with your pet. The best ones are those who not only feed and play with them, but hold certificates in First Aid and CPR. Consider the benefits. Your dog remains at home, with the same diet and daily routine, and receives both attention and exercise while you’re away. You can feel more secure knowing that, not only is your dog safe, but your home is too. Pet sitters can take in your newspapers and mail, water your plants and provide your place with that lived-in look. To begin, ask your vet, trainer or groomer for recommendations. Ask your friends and neighbors for the names of their own pet sitters. Interview each candidate over the phone, then in person, and ask the following questions: Can they provide written proof that they’re bonded and carry commercial liability insurance? What formal training have they received? Are contingency plans in place if an accident or emergency prevents them from fulfilling their duties? Will they provide extra services like grooming, dog walking or playtime with other dogs? If they provide live-in services, what are the specific times they agree to be with your dog? Will they give you a written contract listing their services and fees? Will they provide you with the phone numbers of clients who have agreed to be references? If you’re satisfied with the person’s answers and if the references have checked out, it's imperative that your dog first meet and interact with prospective sitter. Monitor them closely. Does your dog seem comfortable with the person? Are they a good fit? Are there any issues that need addressing? Once your decision has been made and you, yourself, are comfortable, you can begin to plan that long-delayed vacation: whether for a weekend, a week or longer. Then, before your date of departure: Walk the sitter through your home, pointing out all the essentials needed to make the agreed-upon routine run smoothly and well. Prepare a comprehensive list of emergency contact information, including how to reach you and your vet. Store all of your dog’s food and other supplies in one place, along with extras in case you're away longer than originally planned. Give a trustworthy neighbor copies of your keys and have that neighbor and the pet sitter exchange phone numbers. Show the pet sitter any important safety features, such as fuse boxes, circuit breakers and security systems. With everything firmly in place, all you have to do now is leave. Secure in the knowledge that your precious dog is in good hands and is, after all, a mere phone call away. “GO ORANGE FOR ANIMALS” Statistics show that in America, an animal is abused every 10 seconds. And so, April has been designated “Prevention of Cruelty to Animals” Month. A month during which everyone is urged to “Go Orange for Animals” to increase public awareness about these unconscionable, and usually unreported, incidents. How YOU can help: RAISE FUNDS Using your personal Facebook account, create a fundraising page for a specific rescue group or shelter to celebrate an important occasion (birthday, graduation, anniversary, pet’s birthday, etc.) then share it with family and friends. Or instead of gifts, ask them to make a donation in your name to the rescue or shelter of your choice. ORANGE, ORANGE EVERYWHERE Show your support by wearing something orange all month. For young and old. Female and male. For her: barrettes and bows, scarves and shoelaces, brooches and bracelets, tank tops and teddies, necklaces and nail polish. For him: ties, tie tacks and tee shirts, bow ties and baseball caps, socks, suspenders and sneakers, pocket scarves and pins on lapels. Or go BIG! Tie a broad orange ribbon around a tree in your yard for everyone to see – and hopefully imitate.
SUPPORT A SHELTER OR RESCUE Drawing on your own, personal contacts, team up with a local shelter or rescue group and assist them at a ”Go Orange for Animals” event such as an adoption day or weekend. Or set up your own donation drive – from jars of pennies, animals toys and pet food, to garage, yard and bake sales -- and give the proceeds and/or supplies you’ve collected to the shelter or rescue you’ve selected.
SHOW YOUR VIRTUAL SUPPORT Spread the word about “Prevention of Cruelty to Animals” Month by posting on your social media networks using the hashtag #fightcruelty and tagging @aspca. MAKE ADOPTION YOUR ONLY OPTION Both shelters and rescue groups have loving animals of every breed and age, size and color, personality and temperament, desperate to find loving homes. By opting to adopt, not shop, you’re saving two lives: the life of the animal you adopt and the life of the animal taking its place. And please, spread the word! IF YOU SEE IT, REPORT IT Should you witness an act of cruelty towards an animal, report it the ASPCA and the police in that area. The more information you have the better. If possible, photograph the act of abuse (cell phones and other devices will have the time and date stamped on each shot). If others have witnessed the same act of cruelty, ask for their cooperation by getting their names, contact information, and if possible, brief written statements. Make copies of everything for your own records before giving them to anyone else. Whether you report the abuse in person or call it in, keep a record of the person you contact, the date, and the content and outcome of your discussion. Make it clear that you are interested in pursuing the case, and that you will help in any way you can.
Remember. ONE person CAN make a difference. If YOU speak out and speak up, imagine how many other “YOU’S” are doing and will do the same. Imagine what an enormous impact the effect of your combined voices can and will have on the lives of imperiled animals everywhere.
BE SPECIAL: ADOPT A DOG WITH SPECIAL NEEDS Their bodies may be imperfect, but their spirit remains intact. So it is said about the special needs dog. Although caring for one can be challenging, more and more people are opening their hearts and their homes and adopting them. For this reason, more and more dogs who might otherwise be euthanized are being given a new “leash” on life. Experts stress the importance of not viewing special needs dogs as “handicapped.” Although they have certain limitations (including partial paralysis, three leggedness, blindness or deafness), they’re not “aware” of them, and can be as active and affectionate as any other dog. Adopters of special needs dogs insist the rewards outweigh the work. Many use social media to share their experiences, to interact with owners like them, and to encourage others to adopt. They don’t see these dogs’ medical or physical problems as a shortcoming, and don’t believe it makes them any less of a dog. Those interested in adopting a special needs dog should first fully inform themselves about that dog’s condition, limitations, and maintenance. This includes meeting with their vet, requesting a tutorial on administering medications, and asking if they will make house calls. If not, they should ask to be referred to someone who will. The quality of life for special needs dogs has been greatly enhanced by the growing number of products available to their owners. There are pet diapers, no-slip boots, orthotic braces, prosthetics, and front, back, combination and amputee harnesses. Ramps, pet steps, pet stairs and pet carts. Adjustable pet wheelchairs that can accommodate dogs weighing up to 180 pounds. And because partially paralyzed pets frequently get carpet burns when out of their chairs, there are washable, heavy-duty “drag bags” to protect their back ends.
Sadly, dogs who are blind or deaf have been characterized as aggressive, unpredictable, untrainable, prone to other health issues, and even a shorter life span. Studies, however, have proven otherwise. They have shown that despite their obvious deficiencies, these dogs are generally quite healthy and capable of living long, otherwise normal lives. And that, whether blind or deaf, they are no more aggressive, unpredictable or untrainable than sighted or hearing dogs.
Blind dogs are trained through the use of both sound and scent cues. By relying on their highly developed sense of smell, their noses let them know where and what things are, and when combined with their owners’ reassuring voice and touch, helps them live as normally and comfortably as possible. They quickly learn and “map out” their surroundings, and for added protection, have their own “go to” place, created by putting their food and water bowls, doggie bed, kennel, and several favorite toys (squeaky toys or ones with bells inside are best) on a distinctive mat, and never moved. A carpeted runner or large area rug provides them with safe play area because the traction is good and the edges clearly discernible. Sharp edges on furniture can be padded with bubble-wrap or foam pipe insulation to help prevent injury. Any stairways should be baby-gated, and a textured mat laid before each one to alert the dog to the gates’ proximity. And all outside activities, from pottying to playing, should be done either in a securely fenced yard or securely on leash. Deaf or hard-of-hearing dogs are trained through the use of sign language or hand signals with treats as reinforcement. Vibrations are also used, such as walking with a “heavy foot” if their attention is elsewhere, and stomping close to their bed or near their head to waken them rather than touching and startling them. Lights can also be used as a teaching tool to get their attention, but, of course, this works best as night. Since they bond instantly with their owners, placing their trust and safekeeping in their hands, deaf dogs always look to them for guidance and follow where their owner leads. As with blind dogs, all outside activities, from pottying to playing, should be done either in a securely fenced yard or securely on leash. Because there is nothing inherently “wrong” with them, deaf dogs can do almost anything hearing dogs do. Many of them excel at agility and obedience, and make excellent therapy dogs. As the owners of special needs dogs readily agree, their own lives have been irrevocably changed. By the sweetness and determination of the animals they adopted. By the smiles they elicit and the kisses they distribute. And most importantly, by the inspiration these dogs provide, not only for them, but for everyone around them.
THE JOYS OF ADOPTING A SENIOR DOG How many times have we humans heard the expression, “You’re only as old as you feel”? And why is it that some days, despite our actual age, we feel younger than we are, while other days, we feel older, much older? So it is with our canine companions. What constitutes a senior in one breed may be an adult in another – with plenty of room for peppiness in both. Although most veterinarians agree that a dog is considered “senior” around the age of 7, what matters more is the size, not the number. Small dogs mature slower, tend to live longer than large dogs, and become seniors later in life. Dogs weighing less than 20 pounds may not show signs of aging until they’re around 12. Fifty-pound dogs won't seem older until they’re around 10, while the largest dogs start “showing their age” at around 8. But if wisdom comes with age, so do benefits. And in the case of those lovingly dubbed “gray muzzles”, the benefits of adopting a senior dog are many. Think puppy at heart without the puppy problems. Because in adopting a senior dog, you CAN judge a book by its cover. What you see is what you get: a mature animal whose physique and persona are fully formed -- no baby teeth to gnaw on your furniture, no yappy energy to wear you out – allowing you to see, within moments, if yours is a mutual match or not. Although, as with everything else, there are always exceptions to the rule, opening your home to an older dog means opening your heart to an experience akin to instant gratification. Calmer than their younger counterparts, older dogs are house trained and have long since mastered the basic commands of “sit,” “stay,” “down,” and “come.” And contrary to popular belief, you CAN teach an old dog new tricks. Dogs are trainable at any age, and older dogs are just as bright as younger ones, with a greater attention span, making them that much easier to train. Older dogs are loyal, loving and experienced companions, ready to walk politely on leash with you, run gaily off leash (with good recall) in the dog park, and play frisky games of fetch with your new tennis ball or their own, well-worn one. Less demanding of your attention than younger dogs, they are content with their own company for longer periods, then will lavish you with all of their adoration and affection when it’s cuddling time. Due to their lower energy level, senior dogs are easier to care for and make superlative companions for senior people. They also make friendly and gentle playmates for children -- particularly if they were once some other family’s cherished pet. One common misconception about older, adoptable dogs is that they are “problem dogs”. And yet, most of them have lost their homes, not because of their behavior or temperament, but because of changes in the lives, lifestyle or circumstances of their original owners. Sadly, for many senior dogs awaiting adoption, age IS seen as a number, even if that number is only 5, and even if that same dog has 10 years or more to live, to love and be loved. More difficult to adopt than younger dogs, and just as deserving of a permanent home, they are all too often overlooked and for all the wrong reasons. Senior dogs seem to sense when they receive a second chance at the rest of their lives. And anyone wise enough to adopt one, will not only reap the benefits, but will be the lucky recipient of a love as unconditional as it is enduring.
Protect Your Pet: Provide Proper Doggy Dental Care Did you know that 80% of dogs over the age of 4 have some form of dental disease? As with people, the main culprit is a build-up of plaque, which eventually hardens into tartar, leading to gingivitis (inflammation of the gums) and periodontal disease. The result? A bacterial invasion of the gums and tissues supporting the teeth, damaging them and ultimately causing tooth loss. This bacteria can also invade the bloodstream, potentially damaging the lungs, heart, kidneys and liver. Did you know that, as responsible owners, you can lower your dog’s risks by following a program of conscientious oral care. Before you start, have the vet examine your dog’s mouth for signs of hardened plaque and/or dental disease. If your dog suffers from either condition, once the dental disease is treated and/or the plaque professionally removed, your home care program can begin. Ideally, you should begin caring for your dog’s teeth while he’s still a puppy. Brushing his teeth is the most effective way to control plaque by breaking it up before it hardens into tartar. Choose only those toothbrushes, tooth pastes and oral gels designed especially for pets. For the more difficult ones, there are “rubber finger brushes.” If your dog refuses to accept any of these “tools,” use your own finger. It’s the act of brushing or rubbing which provides the most benefit. Brush your dog’s teeth at the same time every day. Begin slowly, praising him often, stopping if he becomes agitated, then beginning again. Increase the amount of brushing time slowly, day by day. If your dog absolutely refuses to have his teeth cleaned, add specially formulated antiseptic oral rinses (although they’re more effective when combined with cleaning) to his water. Dogs love to chew, and this has the added benefit of helping to keep their teeth clean. There are dozens of specifically formulated oral care products for them, including dental chews, chew toys and treats. There are also special dental diets shown to reduce plaque and/or tartar build up. They work by physically cleaning the teeth more efficiently than regular kibble (theirs is less likely to crumble upon chewing) or by the addition of chemicals to prevent the hardening of plaque into tartar. Weekly inspections of your dog’s entire mouth can also help avoid both dental disease and costly and invasive medical procedures in the future. Ensure that your vet includes a thorough examination of your dog’s mouth, gums and teeth in each annual check up. Be alert to such problems as bad breath, drooling, red or puffy, bleeding gums, yellow tartar crusted along the gum line, discolored, broken or missing teeth, bumps in the mouth, and changes in chewing or eating habits. If you’ve been neglecting your dog’s dental health up to now, it is never too late to start.
INTRODUCING YOUR NEW DOG TO YOUR OTHER PET Imagine handing out treats and name tags at the front door of your home for your new dog and your resident pets. Imagine happy munches and friendly woofs (and/or meows) as they blend and bond instantly and forever. Then blink twice and remember that you are living in the world of reality and not in an ideal parallel universe. But armed with a set of realistic expectations, your reality may ultimately be just as ideal. Introducing your new dog to the pets already in your home is a process. To succeed, you must start with a plan and a promise – to yourself -- to be patient. The process can take anywhere from a few days to a few weeks (and in extreme cases, a few months). To improve your chances of a happy blending of old and new, choose a dog as close as possible in temperament and activity level to the pets you already have. Dogs and cats are creatures of habit, and most dislike any disruptions in their daily lives and routines. Some dogs are naturally more relaxed and more social than others. Some are more territorial and don't enjoy sharing at all. Unhappy with the arrival of a newcomer, they may demonstrate their disapproval by fighting with the perceived “intruder” or by marking. Allow your new dog to adjust to you and to his/her new surroundings by keeping him/her in a separate room with his/her bed, food, water and toys for several days. Spend as much quality, comforting time with your new arrival as possible. Maintain your other pets’ regular routines – from feeding and pottying to exercising, playing and together times – to reassure them that nothing has changed. Since smells are of utmost importance to animals, get them used to each other’s scent as soon as possible. One way is through that most reliable standby: food. Feed your resident pets and your new dog on either side of the door to his/her room, encouraging them to associate something pleasurable with one another’s smell. Once this has been successfully accomplished, walk your new dog slowly through your home, room by room, allowing him/her to become familiar with its sights, sounds and smells. Keep your other pets behind the closed door of his/her room to allow your new dog a sense of safety and privacy, while promoting a further exchange of scents between them. Repeat this several times a day for a few days. Next, use two doorstoppers to keep the door to your new dog’s room propped open just enough for all of the animals to see each other. Repeat this several times a day for a few days. BUT remember! Every time you leave your home, leave your new dog in his/her room with the door closed. Hopefully, when you’re ready to make the “formal” introductions, your patience and your animals’ pre-preparations will have paid off. And they will not only recognize, but also start to accept one another by what they see and smell. Armed with the tastiest treats and most tempting toys, you can expect sniffing, approaching and walking away. Reward good behavior with praise and treats, but discourage bad behavior by promptly separating the offending parties and gently, but firmly correcting them. Once again, patience is key. This too is a process, which may take time until the blending is successful, and your family is calmly and contentedly one. If, however, certain problems persist, speak to your vet or consult a recommended animal behaviorist.
DOGGY, COME HOME: TURNING LOST INTO FOUND Millions of dogs go missing each year. Unfortunately, very few of them are ever reunited with their owners. Many of them become and remain strays. Others are taken to pounds or shelters, where they are all too often, euthanized. The luckier ones are saved by rescue organizations and ultimately placed in adoptive homes. But it doesn’t have to be this way. Lately, an increasing number of conscientious dog owners have begun to rely on a dual form of protection for their precious family pet. Included in this “protective package” are visible forms of identification – ID tags -- and permanent ones -- microchips. Pet ID tags are small metallic or plastic tags personalized with your name, address, and phone number, and attached to your dog's collar. These tags are as close as your nearest pet supply store or online vendor, and if your dog ever goes missing, will immediately identify you as the owner. Microchipping is a simple and safe procedure. A veterinarian injects a microchip designed especially for animals -- the size of a grain of rice -- beneath the surface of your dog’s skin between the shoulder blades. Similar to a routine shot, it takes only a few seconds and most dogs don’t seem to even feel the implantation. Unlike ID tags, a microchip is permanent and, with no internal energy source, will last the life of your dog. Your dog must then be promptly registered with the microchip company (usually for a one-time fee), thus storing his unique, alpha-numeric code in the company’s database. Whenever a lost dog appears at a shelter, humane society or veterinary clinic, he/she will automatically be scanned for a microchip. If there is one, the screen of the handheld scanner will display that dog’s specific code. A simple call to the recovery database using a toll free 800 number enables the code to be traced back to the dog’s owner. But in order for the system to work efficiently, all owners are cautioned to keep their contact information up-to-date. The most complete microchips comply with International Standards Organization (ISO) Standards. These standards define the structure of the microchip’s information content and determine the protocol for scanner-microchip communication. They also include the assignment of a 15-digit numeric identification code to each microchip; 3 digits either for the code of the country in which the dog was implanted or for the manufacturer’s code; one digit for the dog’s category (optional), and the remaining 8 or 9 digits for that dog’s unique ID number. As with anything else, however, problems can and do arise. Not all shelters, humane societies, and veterinary offices have scanners. Although rare, microchips can fail, and even universal scanners may not be able to detect every microchip. Accurate detection can also be hampered if dogs struggle too much while being scanned or if either long, matted hair or excess fat deposits cover the implantation site. And because there are an ever-increasing number of pet recovery services, there is, as yet, no single database that links one to the other. Since no method of identification is perfect, the best way owners can protect their dogs is by keeping current ID tags on them, microchipping them, and never allowing them to roam free.
Spaying (removing the ovaries and uterus of a female dog) and neutering (removing the testicles of a male dog) are simple procedures, rarely requiring so much as an overnight stay in a veterinary clinic. Because half of all litters are unplanned, and because puppies can conceive puppies of their own, spaying and neutering them before the age of 6 months can help break this cycle. According to SPAY USA, an unspayed female dog, her unneutered mate and their offspring (if none are spayed or neutered) result in the births of a staggering 12,288 puppies in just 5 years. The inevitable outcome? Hundreds of thousands of dogs being euthanized through no fault of their own. Why? Because they are the tragic, but avoidable, result of over breeding and overpopulation. Why? Because there are too few shelters to house them and too few homes to either foster or adopt them. Why? Because there are still too many dog owners unwilling to spay and neuter their pets. The positive effects of spaying and neutering far outweigh the negatives. Females spayed before their first heat are much less likely to develop mammary cancer than those left intact. Early spaying is also their best protection against conditions like pyometritis, a potentially fatal bacterial infection of the uterus, as well as ovarian and uterine cancers. Early neutering of males protects them against testicular cancer, and helps curb both aggression and other undesirable behaviors. According to the American Veterinary Medical Association Task Force on Canine Aggression and Human-Canine Interactions, 70 to 76 percent of reported dog bite incidents are caused by intact males. For years, reputable rescue groups have been spaying and neutering the animals in their care before even putting them up for adoption. More recently, in an effort to address at least part of this ongoing problem, various organizations -- large and small, urban and rural, public and private -- have been springing up across the country. From the ASPCA to local humane societies, spay/neuter clinics are opening and operating. Mobile spay/neuter clinics are reaching out to those unable to reach them. Many rescue groups now offer their own Spay Neuter Incentive Programs (SNIP), which provide assistance to low income households. Imagine if there were more regional, local and mobile spay/neuter clinics. More Spay Neuter Incentive Programs. Imagine entire communities across the country, where every pet owner took personal responsibility for spaying and neutering their pets. Imagine what we, as part of the global community, could accomplish then.
A puppy-proofed home is a pet-safe home whatever the age of your new dog. Before that first front paw crosses your threshold for the first time, your home must be a health zone, not a hazard zone. Be especially attentive to the sensibilities of former puppy mill dogs or “outside” dogs. They may never have walked on wooden floors, carpets or tiles, or been exposed to so many new and unfamiliar sights before. Begin the process of pet-proofing by walking through your home, room by room, searching methodically for things a dog might climb, knock over or pull down, and either secure, remove or store them. Keep all trashcans behind closed and latched doors and wastebaskets (covered if possible) out of sight. Ensure that all heating/air vents have covers. Snap specially designed plastic caps over electrical outlets. Tie electrical cords together and tuck them out of reach. Install childproof latches to keep inquisitive paws from prying open cabinet doors in kitchens and bathrooms, and always keep the toilet lids closed. In bedrooms, keep all medications, lotions and cosmetics off accessible surfaces such as bedside tables. Store collections – from buttons, bottle caps and coins to matchboxes, marbles and potpourri – on high shelves, while keeping breakables on low surfaces to an absolute minimum. Most chemicals are hazardous to dogs and should be replaced, wherever possible, with natural, non-toxic products. A partial list of toxic chemicals includes: antifreeze, bleach, drain cleaner, household cleaners and detergents, glue, nail polish and polish remover, paint, varnish and sealants, pesticides and rat poison Many indoor plants, however pretty, can prove poisonous to a dog. Since dogs are, by nature, explorers – not to mention lickers and chewers – protecting them from harm is essential. A partial list of such indoor plants includes: aloe, amaryllis, asparagus fern, azalea and rhododendron, chrysanthemum, corn plant, cyclamen, Dieffenbachia, elephant ear, jade plant, kalanchoe, lilies, peace lily, philodendron, pothos, Sago palm, schefflera and yew. Seemingly harmless “people” food can potentially be lethal to dogs. A partial list of these includes: alcohol, avocado, chocolate, caffeinated items, fruit pits and seeds, grapes and raisins, macadamia nuts and onions. Although prevention is the key to your new dog’s well being, accidents can and do happen. The truly protective pet parents are prepared pet parents and know to keep a list of vital numbers handy:
Hopefully, these are numbers you’ll never use. And as long as you remain vigilant, both you and your new best friend can rest, assured.
If this is your first dog, establish yourself with a vet or register your new dog with your established vet. Then apply for the appropriate licenses, etc., required in your area. Remember that a dog’s true personality may not reveal itself for several weeks. Therefore, these first few weeks require an atmosphere of calm and patience, not anger or punishment. Knowing your new dog’s established schedules for meals, pottying, walking and exercise beforehand are essential to maintaining his/her sense of continuity. Once you arrive home, bring your new dog to his/her designated pottying place. Spend time letting your new dog get accustomed to the place, and if he/she potties, reward him/her with praise and a treat. Repeat this (whether your dog potties or not) to reinforce it, but be prepared for accidents. Even a housebroken dog will be nervous in, and curious about, new surroundings. Your new dog may also pant or pace excessively, suffer from stomach upsets or have no appetite at all due to the sudden changes in his/her life. Give your new dog the same food that he/she ate before. After 30 minutes, remove the food whether it’s been eaten or not. Do not allow your new dog to “graze.” (If you want to switch brands, wait a week. Begin by adding one part new food to three parts of the old for several days. Then add half new to half old for several more days, followed by one part old to three parts new until it’s all new food and the transition is complete). Learn the commands your new dog already knows and don’t attempt to teach him/her any new ones for awhile. Walk your new dog slowly through your home allowing him/her plenty of time to sniff around and become familiar with all of its sights and smells. If needed, teach your new dog proper house manners from the start -- calmly and patiently. Reward good behavior with praise and treats for positive reinforcement. Introduce your new dog to the other members of your household one by one. Unless you know that the dog enjoys approaching new people, instruct everyone to sit, silent and still, on a couch or chair and ignore him/her. Allow your new dog to approach them, sniffing, whether it takes several seconds or several minutes. Only when he/she is relaxed should they begin to pet him/her lightly and gently. Children in particular should be closely supervised to ensure that they follow these same guidelines. Show your new dog his/her place to sleep and place a few treats around the area as added incentives. Give your new dog some quiet, alone time to get used to his/her space while you remain in the room for reassurance. For the first few days, remain calm and quiet around your new dog, allowing him/her to settle in comfortably while you become familiar with his/her likes and dislikes, quirks and habits. Begin the routine you want to establish (according to your own lifestyle) for your new dog’s pottying, eating, walking, playing and alone times, and maintain it -- calmly but firmly. Initial resistance is to be expected, but remain firm – without impatience or anger – while your new dog gradually becomes accustomed to his/her new schedule. To make the process as pleasant and reassuring as possible, spend quality time with your new dog, stroking him/her or brushing his/her coat, while talking gently and soothingly to strengthen the bond and trust between you. If you want to change your new dog’s name, begin by saying his/her new name and giving him/her an especially good treat (chicken works well) or a belly rub. This will teach your new dog to love the sound and respond to it. Repeating this numerous times a day will speed up the process. Limit your new dog’s activities to your home, potty and exercise areas, keeping away from neighbors and other dogs, public places and dog parks. Invite a relative or friend over to meet your new dog. Hand them treats and tell them to be calm and gentle in their approach unless your new dog calmly approaches them first. Gradually accustom your new dog to being alone by leaving your home briefly then returning, repeating this several times over a period of a day or two and gradually increasing the alone time from a few minutes to a half hour to an hour. This way he/she won’t feel abandoned. When you return, walk in calmly and don’t fuss over your dog until he/she has settled down. If your new dog whines or cries, don’t cuddle or console him/her. It only reinforces this behavior. Instead give him/her attention and praise for good behavior, such as resting quietly or chewing on a toy instead. And treats always work wonders. Slowly begin introducing your new dog to your neighbors and other dogs, closely monitoring his/her reactions, especially towards the dogs. Bring your new dog to the vet to introduce them to each other, address any health or behavioral concerns, and get a new rabies certificate. For any behavioral issues you can’t resolve on your own, ask your vet for the name of a professional. Remember that making your new dog the newest member of your family is a process, and that consistency is the key. Your reward? A loving and happy companion, and the satisfaction of knowing that you have saved his/her life.
KEEPING YOUR DOG WARM THIS WINTER Before the chill in the air turns into the cold of winter, make certain that both you and your dog are fully prepared to stay safe and warm. For pet parents living in houses, it’s advisable to have the furnace checked for signs of carbon monoxide leakage before turning it on for the first time. If dogs spend more time at home than you during the winter months, they will, naturally, be more vulnerable to carbon monoxide poisoning. As a precaution, arrange a pre-winter examination with your vet to determine if there are any medical problems that may make your dog more susceptible to the cold. A reminder: never shave a long-coated dog in winter. Keep your dog indoors, preferably in a warm “go to” place away from drafts. To ensure their skin and coat are protected against the drier air – inside and out -- brush them more often than usual. Pay special attention to both elderly and arthritic dogs, as their joints may stiffen in the cold, making their movements more awkward and painful If you have a wood-burning fireplace and light a fire, ensure that your dog is a safe distance from the heat, flames and flying embers. This reduces the risk of singed fur, hair, paws and tails. The same applies to space heaters, except that, in this case, a dog can knock over the heater itself, possibly causing a fire. Weather permitting, the happiest, healthiest dogs are those being walked and exercised on a regular basis. But before going outside, dress your dog -- particularly seniors and smaller breeds – in a heavy sweater or coat. The colder the temperature, the greater the protection (this applies to most dogs) including waterproof, padded parkas with hoods and dog booties. Always keep your dog on-leash, whether you’re on a city street or in the country near a frozen pond or lake. There’s nothing more dangerous or frightening than a dog running loose in the snow, possibly losing all sense of direction, or falling through the ice into the water. When it’s cold and snowy, many dogs will resist pottying outside. Ensure that they’re warmly, but comfortably dressed, and stand close to them, perhaps with an opened umbrella to shield them and keep them dry. Dogs lose most of their body heat from the pads of their feet, their ears, and their respiratory tract. Monitor them closely for any signs of discomfort. If they begin to shiver or whine, appear anxious, slow down or stop moving altogether, it’s time to go back inside. Be on guard as well for two more serious conditions: frostbite and hypothermia. Once indoors, dry your dog thoroughly, paying special attention to their paws and the pads of their feet. Licking at any salt and antifreeze coating their pads can make them sick, while the combination of ice and salt can cause their pads to crack and bleed Never leave your dog alone in a car for any length of time on a cold day. Cars are like giant refrigerators on wheels. The only safe place for your dog on a cold day is a warm home. Dogs should never be kept outside during the winter. But if they must be left outdoors for a limited amount of time, they must have a warm, well-insulated shelter (straw traps heat best) to protect them from the wind and cold. And take care to keep their water bowl – plastic, not metal – filled with fresh, not frozen, water. After checking this list, not once, but twice, you’ll be more than ready to let it snow, let it snow, let it snow.
WHY FOSTER A DOG? “Fostering a dog is not a lifetime commitment, it is a commitment to saving a life.” This is the watchword of rescue groups everywhere. To foster a dog is, quite simply, to save that dog’s life. A foster home provides that same dog with a safe, temporary place of refuge until he is ultimately placed in a permanent, adoptive home. Most rescues rely solely on a network of dedicated, volunteer foster homes, and could not survive without them. And rescues NEVER have enough foster homes. Why? Because there are more dogs in need than there are foster homes available to meet that need. There are many benefits to fostering, many pleasant surprises and many unexpected rewards. Foster parents, past and present, describe it as one of the most memorable and gratifying experiences of their lives. Fostering is both a way of enriching the lives of the dogs and people involved, and a constructive way for people to give back to their communities. Fostered dogs can provide hours of entertainment and love for their humans, and provide valuable life lessons for adults and children alike. By taking a deserving dog into their homes, fosters increase that dog’s chances of being adopted. Foster families have the time and the ability to transform their foster dog, through one-on-one contact, exercise and training, into a pet any person or family would be proud to call their own. Fostering provides a needy dog with a stable environment, coupled with love, attention and affection. While the foster family provides the food, the rescue usually provides everything else, including payment of all medical costs to ensure the dog’s ongoing health and wellbeing. Fosters are the essential eyes and ears of rescue. By spending every day with their foster dog, fosters will learn all they can about his particular personality. They will be able to identify any behavioral issues that need to be addressed, then work on addressing them If fosters already have a dog – either their own or another foster -- in residence, all the better. The more animals their foster dog meets, the more socialized he will become, the more easily he will handle stress, and the more relaxed he will be around strangers. And it’s a simple matter to add another warm, furry body to their own dog’s daily walks, meal and potty schedules. For those who have never owned a dog, fostering provides them with the unique opportunity of seeing if they themselves are suited for permanent pet parenthood. But fostering a dog is NOT a form of trial adoption for that particular dog. There is even a term for it: foster failure. The most successful fosters are those who, despite being emotionally invested, know that they are a stepping stone towards their foster dog’s future. And that as one successfully fostered dog leaves their home, another needy and deserving dog is waiting to enter it. Ultimately, then, fostering a dog saves not just one life, but two. DOGS AND SEASONAL AFFECTIVE DISORDER (SAD) As the days grow darker and shorter, and the thermometer plummets, so does the mood of millions of people living in the Northern Hemisphere. But humans are not the only ones affected by what scientists refer to as Seasonal Affective Disorder or SAD. Our dogs – even the happiest, most active and energetic ones -- can suffer the same dramatic downturn in mood. In some veterinary studies, one third of the dog owners surveyed reported a steep plunge in their dogs’ otherwise happy and balanced personalities during the winter. According to them, nearly half of their dogs were less active, while half of them slept longer and were more difficult to rouse in the morning. The British veterinary organization PDSA (People’s Dispensary for Sick Animals) recently listed some of the symptoms displayed by dogs suffering from SAD. They include aggressive behavior or soiling inappropriately, clawing at the furniture, either demanding more attention or appearing withdrawn, frequent barking, lethargy, less interest in going for walks or playing either with people, other dogs or toys, and reduced appetite accompanied by weight loss. According to scientists, the reason for these behavioral changes in both humans and dogs appears to stem from the effect that light has on two significant hormones. The first is melatonin, produced in the pineal gland. The second is serotonin, produced in the brain. Melatonin, often referred to as the “hormone of darkness”, plays a vital role in regulating the sleep cycle. The pineal gland is light sensitive, and because melatonin is usually secreted at night, the less light there is – as in the shorter, darker days of winter -- the greater the production of melatonin. Key among its many, negative effects: lethargy, loss of appetite and sleepiness. Serotonin, often referred to as the “feel good” substance in the brain also affects mood, appetite and sleep – but in an entirely different way. In this case, it’s sunlight that’s needed for the production of serotonin. There are ways, however, to combat the effects of daylight’s diminishing hours on your dog’s mood before the full onset of winter. Begin by ensuring that his regular exercise regime is maintained and that his diet is well balanced. If your dog is already exhibiting signs of lethargy or withdrawal, talk constantly and comfortingly to him, and play games -- such as hiding his favorite toys or tug-o-war -- to keep him active and engaged. Studies show that dogs left alone most of the day are those who suffer the most. To rectify this, spend more time with your dog if possible. Otherwise, hire a dog walker or place him in doggy daycare. Since the absence of bright light seems to be the major cause of SAD, the other solutions involve raising your dog’s direct exposure to as much light as possible. Place his bed close to a window or glass door. Change the schedule of his walks so that he is outside during the brightest portion of the day, and keep the lights on inside, particularly on the dullest days. Ultimately, though, it’s the composition of the light that matters most. The more closely it resembles natural daylight, the more therapeutic it is. Just as there are specially designed “light boxes” for people with SAD, there are now similar light boxes for dogs. Owners opting for less expensive solutions need simply replace old, tungsten light bulbs with new, compact white fluorescent ones, labeled either “full spectrum” or “daylight.” Turn these lights on for at least an hour each day, then play with your dog to ensure his eyes are fully open and both retinas clearly exposed to the incoming light. Hopefully, following all or some of these suggestions will spare both you and your beloved dog an unnecessary case of the winter blues.
. A YEAR OF DOG RESCUE RESOLUTIONS FOR YOU Have you thought of adding some new and different resolutions to your traditional New Year’s list? Here then, are twelve different ways – one for each month of the year – for you to resolve to make a difference in the lives of rescue dogs this year. Even if you choose only one, that choice will make all the difference in the world. 1. Contact your local humane society or animal shelter and volunteer your services to them: from office work, to cleaning cages and kennels, to being a dog walker once a week. 2. Donate a basket of dog items such as food, treats, bowls, toys and pee pads, together with either new or gently used collars and leashes, clothes and blankets to that same humane society or shelter. 3. Contact a local rescue organization and ask to volunteer for them. Volunteers form the backbone of every non-profit group, and no group can function without them. Areas always in need of extra hands include reference checks, web site assistance, updating email lists, attending adoption events, planning and attending fundraisers, distributing flyers, pamphlets and brochures, and transport. 4. Select one particular rescue online that “speaks to you” and make a monetary contribution to them – either as a onetime payment or as recurring monthly payments. 5. Read about the other ways you can donate to them – from wish lists to links to various online stores’ web sites – and purchase items both for yourself and them that way. 6. Follow that particular rescue’s Face Book page, and “like” them, “share” and comment on their postings regularly. 7. Instead of accepting birthday gifts this year, ask your friends and family to make contributions to that rescue in your name. 8. Host a small fundraiser (bake sales, garage sales and yard sales are among the most popular) and donate the proceeds to that rescue. You will receive not only their gratitude, but a tax receipt as well. 9. At your place of work, keep a container on your desk with the name of that rescue on it, and encourage your co-workers to deposit their spare change in it. Once the container is full, bring the change to the bank (already rolled, please), mail a check to the rescue, and begin again. 10. Sign petitions, both online and in person: one calling for legislation to ban puppy mills, and one calling on pet stores to stop selling dogs and cats. 11. Foster a dog. Learn precisely what’s required of you, then welcome one very needy and deserving animal into your home temporarily, until he or she can be placed in a permanent home. 12. Adopt a rescue dog and save two lives – the life of the one you are adopting, and the life of the one who will immediately take his or her place. As for next year? Either continue working your way down this list, or resolve to draw up one of you own.
NO PETS AS PRESENTS AT CHRISTMAS With the approach of the holidays, everyone’s thoughts turn naturally to the happy chore of gift giving. While most people opt for the tried and true, hoping another gift certificate isn’t too impersonal or another scarf or bottle of perfume isn’t too predictable, they’re much safer choices than those being considered by some this season: the purchase of a pet. The gift of a dog or puppy is not the same as the gift of a large, stuffed plush toy. More often than not, wrapping a red ribbon and bow around the neck of a living, breathing dog signals only one thing: trouble. Dogs are NOT toys, and should never be anyone’s holiday surprise. Unlike other holiday purchases, there are no refunds or exchanges on dogs. Only serious, possibly dire consequences. Although the idea of a dog as a gift may sound thoughtful, it is, in reality, thoughtless. Why? Because the gift OF a dog means accepting the responsibility FOR that dog. It must be more than a well-meant whim, the desire to be different. It must be a carefully considered choice. An informed decision made by everyone involved in what may ultimately be a 10 to 15 year commitment. Such decisions require homework and due diligence. Research into dog breeds most appropriate for your family, your lifestyle and your environment; house, condo or apartment; fenced yard or no yard. Intelligent questions asked of owners of those particular breeds and of a knowledgeable veterinarian. Does anyone in your family suffer from allergies? Does everyone even WANT a dog? Do they understand what it means to share in the training, feeding and raising of a dog? Because adding a dog to your family not only involves time and money, it means providing that same dog with a loving and stable home. Children should NEVER be presented with a puppy at any time of the year. Typically, they will be charmed by such a furry, little plaything that leaps and yips, squeals and nips, and rolls over onto its back for tummy rubs. For the first few days. Until the novelty wears off and reality sets in. The reality of helping care for their cute, squirming little gift. Puppies are not so cute when they have to be trained to potty outside or walked outdoors in the rain and snow. Those well-intentioned gift givers – the parents – will now be that puppy’s full time caregivers, and, sadly, many of them weren’t prepared for this eventuality. The result: one more puppy either abandoned by the side of the road, dropped off at a pound, or surrendered to a shelter. Probably to be euthanized. Neither respectable breeders nor responsible rescue groups will either sell or adopt out a puppy or a dog as a holiday gift. They are all too familiar with the heartbreaking results of such dangerous impulse buys. Never purchase a puppy or a dog for someone else – whether it’s a close relative or an even closer friend. The same rules apply. Only doubly so. What you consider an act of generosity may, unfortunately, be seen as an imposition. If any of them want a dog, it’s up to them to make that choice. That same, carefully considered choice and intelligent, informed decision. To ensure that your holidays are happy, ensure that your gifts do NOT include pets. HOLIDAY HOOPLA AND HEALTH HAZARDS With the holidays approaching, it’s time to think not only about celebrating, but also about dog safety. To ensure that the season stays merry and bright, plan ahead and start early. Change the appearance of your home from everyday to holiday gradually, over a period of several weeks. This will allow your dog time to grow comfortable with everything from new or additional furniture and tabletop arrangements to wall and window decorations. To encourage your dog to view this as something positive, reinforce the sentiment by keeping him occupied with Kongs filled with cheese spread or peanut butter, or puzzle toys to puzzle over while you slowly transform the space around him. Maintain your dog’s normal feeding and walking schedules. Ensure that your dog’s “go to” place for security remains the same, unless you know from past experience that his doggy bed, crate or favorite blanket should be moved to a room far from the festivities. Whether you’re hosting a single event or several, follow the same routine to minimize your dog’s potential uneasiness. Ask any unfamiliar guests and all of the children to calmly ignore your dog. Monitor your dog for any signs of anxiety or stress, and lead him to his “safe” place if necessary. On the other hand, if he appears relaxed and is eagerly going from guest to guest, provide them with some of his favorite treats so that they can keep him happily fed. Be conscious of and careful about the greenery you bring into your home. The sap of the Poinsettia plant is considered mildly toxic, and can cause nausea or vomiting in your dog. Holly is considered moderately toxic and can cause nausea, vomiting and diarrhea, whereas Mistletoe is severely toxic and can cause everything from gastrointestinal disorders to cardiovascular problems. Christmas trees are considered mildly toxic. Their oils can irritate your dog’s mouth and stomach, causing excessive drooling and/or vomiting, while their prickly needles are hazardous to your dog’s entire GI tract. Wherever possible, keep all plants beyond your dog’s reach, or else watch him carefully for signs of curiosity, interest, or the impulse to either lick or chew. To err on the side of caution, buy artificial plants instead. As appetizing as holiday fare is for people, it can prove agonizing, even lethal for pets. The most notorious offenders are: GRAPES: Although the precise substance which causes the toxicity in grapes is unknown (some dogs can eat grapes without incident, while others can eat one and become seriously ill) keep them away from your dog. HAM: High in salt and fat, it can lead to stomach upsets and, over time, pancreatitis. MACADEMIA NUTS: Within 12 hours of eating macademia nuts, dogs can experience weakness, depression, tremors, vomiting and hyperthermia (increased body temperature), lasting between 12 and 48 hours. If your dog is exhibiting any of these symptoms, contact your vet immediately. BONES: Whether rib roasts or lamb chops, turkey, chicken or duck, they all have bones. Thick ones and thin ones. Brittle, fragmented and splintered. Whatever the size, shape or texture, they all spell the same thing: danger. From throat scratches to stomach perforations to bowel obstructions. To safeguard against these painful possibilities, all leftovers, particularly bones, should be carefully wrapped and disposed of promptly. ALCOHOL: It’s traditional to celebrate the holidays with more alcohol than usual – both in cooking and in drinks such as eggnog and fruit punch. For safety’s sake, keep these temptations (including partially eaten plates of food and half-empty glasses) out of the reach of your dog. CHOCOLATES: Although chocolate has long been taboo for dogs, most chocolate comes gift-wrapped in foil for the holidays. Now, not only can your dog get sick from eating the chocolate, the wrapper itself can get stuck in your dog’s throat or cause problems as it works its way through your dog’s digestive tract. CHRISTMAS PUDDING, CAKE AND MINCE PIE: All three are filled with currants, raisins and sultanas (the “dried” version of grapes) and therefore pose the same health risk. They are also made with fat and suet, and laced with alcohol -- from scotch and brandy to sugary liqueurs – all of which can cause severe stomach upsets. With some strategic planning beforehand, you and your dog can be assured of spending the happiest and safest of holidays together. The Many Whys Of Rescue Why adopt a rescue pup or dog? Why not buy one from an ad on the Internet or from a pet store? Why not buy one from a breeder? There are many reasons -- all of them humane. The growth of the Internet has spurred the growth of ads selling pets. But it also provides anonymity to a more insidious growth: that of puppy mills and so-called “backyard” breeders. It helps them avoid accountability when they sell unhealthy or mistreated pets to unsuspecting, over-eager buyers. And it only serves to confirm the axiom: “buyer beware.” Each time a dog is bought from an ad on the Internet, a homeless dog is left without a home. Many pet stores rely on both puppy mills and “backyard” breeders. Like the Internet, they rely on impulse buying. A child ogles a playful puppy through a pane of glass, and that old song, “How Much Is That Doggy in the Window?” begins. Few parents can refuse the insistent “Please! Please! Please!” of their children. Each time a puppy is bought from a pet store, a surrendered dog languishes in a shelter. There may be thousands of legitimate breeders throughout the country but there are just as many unscrupulous ones. There are no laws regulating who can and cannot breed. There are no inspections of their facilities. Even a certificate from a recognized kennel club means only that the breeder has “agreed” to its code of ethics. A piece of paper is simply that: a piece of paper. Each time a dog is bought from an unscrupulous breeder, an abandoned dog moves closer to death in a pound. Why, then, adopt a rescue dog? There are tens of thousands of healthy, happy and balanced dogs available from thousands of rescue organizations across the country. Contrary to popular belief, they include purebreds as well as crossbreeds and mixed breeds. And for people intent on a specific breed, there are rescue groups devoted exclusively to a single breed of dog. Adopting a rescue dog is saving that dog’s life. Rescue organizations are usually the last refuge for abandoned and abused dogs, surrendered and senior dogs. They are often a dog’s only escape from a puppy mill, shelter or pound. These rescued dogs are placed in loving and experienced, volunteer foster homes, where they are socialized with people and other animals. They are spayed or neutered, de-wormed, updated on all of their vaccinations and microchipped. They receive whatever veterinary care they need, and are either trained or re-trained before being put up for adoption. And everything is included in the rescue’s modest adoption fees. It is said that saving a dog makes that dog doubly grateful. By extension, then, anyone who saves a dog will be doubly blessed. What better reasons could there be to adopt?
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